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The return of a classic

Delicious creamed spinach will always find its way back to the dinner table

True food classics never die. They may be put on a shelf and neglected for a few years while all of the super fabulous foodies of the world explore things like cremini mushroom foam and butternut caviar or some other new wave food trend, but thankfully the tried and true mainstays eventually find their way back onto our dining room tables and restaurant menus.

I always forget how much I love creamed spinach until I have it and you really don’t need to be in an uppity steak house paying $14 for it to truly enjoy it.

Frankly, I am not sure why we don’t all enjoy it much more often, it’s so easy to make.

Sure, it’s spinach and its “good for you” but let me tell you, when you add enough butter, garlic and cream to anything, you immediately forget about all of that healthy nonsense and find yourself with indisputably delicious side dish.

Like just about anything else that tasty, it should only be enjoyed in moderation. But it will convert even the diehard spinach haters in your house into spinach lovers and trust me when I tell you if you aren’t up for the full steakhouse experience at home, creamed spinach makes a very comfortable bed for a soft poached egg with toast at brunch.

Start with about two pounds of fresh trimmed and washed spinach.

Dump the spinach into a generous pot of boiling water and stir — cook it for just two minutes.

Drain the spinach through a fine mesh sieve and let it cool. When it’s cool enough to pick up, grab it in small batches and squeeze it with your hands to remove the excess water. Set it aside and in a medium-sized frying pan sauté two finely chopped shallots or half of a sweet onion with three cloves of garlic in about two tablespoons of unsalted butter, just until they are soft and fragrant.

Add the squeezed spinach to the pan and cook over medium heat until any additional liquid has cooked off the spinach and it is coated in buttery, garlicky, oniony goodness.

Pour in half a cup of heavy cream, add a generous grating of fresh nutmeg along with pinches of salt and freshly cracked black pepper and combine.

Cook the spinach mixture until the cream has reduced by about half and all of the flavours are well blended, then add half a cup of freshly grated parmesan cheese and stir to combine.

Taste for seasoning and adjust with more salt and pepper as required. Serve immediately.

Or, if you are feeling particularly dangerous, guild the lily with a little (or a lot) more parmesan and bake it in the oven.

When you bring it to the table it will be bubbly and delicious, with little bits of crispy cheese.

Oh, you had me at spinach.

Angie Quaale is a local foodie and owner of Well Seasoned Gourmet Food Store.